We'll try and answer every question you have about Racing Batteries. If your specific query isn't listed please Contact Us.

Q. Do I need to modify my vehicle's electrics in any way to use a Racing Battery?

No. A Racing Battery is a direct replacement for your existing battery - just plug and play.

Q. Can I run the battery in a total loss ignition system?

Yes, if you're careful. You need to know the battery's capacity and your vehicles current draw, so you can work out how long you can run for - don't just run until the vehicle stops as you may well damage the battery. Racing Batteries generally have less capacity than the lead acid battery they replace, so your maximum run time may well be less than that you're used to. Charge the battery regularly (eg between sessions), ideally using an Optimate Lithium, and keep an eye on the voltage - don't run your Racing Battery down below 8V or you'll damage it. A LiGuard will ensure that you don't accidentally flatten the battery.

Q. How do I best look after my Racing Battery?

Everything you need to know is in our care instructions section. We've created a short video which shows you what you need to do. To be completely sure, the battery should be disconnected from the vehicle when not in use (you can also disconnect one lead, or fit a battery master switch/isolator). Don't assume that your ignition switch isolates the battery - it often doesn't - and the parasitic drain from your ECU/alarm/immobilser can flatten the battery over time. The battery should be charged periodically when not in use with an optimate type charger - it's not necessary to leave it permanently plugged in to your charger (in fact you shouldn't do this unless you're sure that it has an automatic zero current maintenance mode like the Optimate Lithium - our recommended charger), but make sure you don't get down below 8V. A LiGuard will ensure that you don't accidentally flatten the battery. Don't ever allow the battery to become completely discharged (eg through leaving the lights/ignition on or allowing an alarm or a leakage in the loom to drain all the charge. The ECU can also draw current with the bike switched off, as can the clock on the dash). Racing Batteries are best used in 3 or 4 second bursts rather than long periods of continuous cranking. And don't crank the engine on a part charged battery - make sure it's charged up first. A LiGuard will show you if the battery is fully charged. We have some on line training resources available to help you look after your Racing Battery - basic care and advanced care

Q. How powerful is a Racing Battery?

Our product range goes from 1200 PCA (Pulse Cranking Amps), down to 25 PCA, depending on the application. If properly selected, our batteries will deliver more current than the lead acid battery you're replacing, and so your motor will start faster and more reliably.

Q. Can I leave my vehicle in the garage for 6 months and expect it to start first time?

No – and realistically neither could you with your existing Lead Acid battery To be sure, the battery should be disconnected from the vehicle when not in use (you can also disconnect one lead, or fit a battery master switch/isolator/low voltage cut-off). Don't assume that your ignition switch isolates the battery - often it doesn't and the ECU, alarm, immobiliser, clock etc can all keep pulling current and flatten your battery. The battery should be charged periodically when not in use with an optimate type charger - it's not necessary to leave it permanently plugged in (in fact you shouldn't unless it you're sure that it has an automatic zero current maintenance mode like the Optimate Lithium - our recommended charger), but make sure you don't get down below 8V - a LiGuard will ensure that you don't accidentally flatten the battery. If after a long layoff the engine won't start straight away, don’t keep cranking the motor over with your Racing Battery fitted – you’ll damage it (just like you would with a Lead Acid Battery) - refit your lead battery or use some jumpleads. We have some on line training resources available to help you look after your Racing Battery - basic care and advanced care.

Q. Does the battery comply with racing regulations?

We're just not able to say that our products are legal for use in a particular race series. There are 2 reasons for this: We can't expected to know all the regulations of all the classes of all race series (bikes, karts, watercraft and so on) around the world and; Compliance with regulations is not the responsibility of the manufacturer of a product. Regulations are issued by the regulating body, interpreted and enforced by the scrutineers, and compliance with regulations is the responsibility of the competitor – no one else.

Q. How do Racing Batteries provide the same cranking power with fewer Amp Hours than my lead acid battery?

When engine designers decide which battery they need to start an engine, they work out how many Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) are required. Amp Hours (Ah) are a by-product of the CCA of a battery - the more CCA you need, the more Ah you get. The Lithium technology we use is more energetic, and lithium is much lighter than lead, so can produce more current from a lighter amount of material than you could with Lead Acid. So you get the same PCA with fewer Ah, and the battery is smaller and lighter. Similarly, the LightweightLead Technology uses the most concentrated lead acid technology available, maximising reactive surface area and hence cranking power for the minimum weight.

Q. Can I mount the battery on it's side or upside down?

Racing Batteries contain no liquids, so they are happy in any orientation - sideways or even upside down. Just keep them away from the exhaust - 80 degrees centigrade is as hot as they like to get. Racing Batteries are fairly tough, but don't mount them directly in contact with the engine - a bit of vibration isolation and distance from heat sources is a good idea.

Q. Do I need to charge the battery before I first use it?

No, Racing Batteries are supplied fully charged - just plug and play.

Q. What if my engine is tuned or modified?

If your engine is tuned you may need a bigger battery - particularly if you are running higher compression or greater capacity than standard. Let us know your engine spec and we'll do our best help you decide on the right battery for you.

Q. Do Racing Batteries have a BMS?

Racing Batteries are not fitted with a BMS (Battery Management System) for one simple reason - they don't need one. Previous lithium technologies (particularly lithium polymer) needed a BMS to prevent overcharging and maintain cell balance. LiFeP04 doesn't need these features in a starter battery application - the chemistry itself is proof against these issues. Other LiFePO4 battery manufacturers claim to have a BMS fitted, but even when they do they dont work for 2 main reasons: - to do cell balancing (which you don't need) you need a multi pin charger (one pin for each cell), but when it's charging from your vehicles alternator the battery only has a + and - terminal, so it can't balance charge. - a built in low voltage cut-off (which would be the most useful feature of a BMS) that can flow 200+ amps would be prohibitively expensive, big and heavy, adding a lot of cost and weight to a Racing Battery. The M2Power capacity batteries we carry have a high quality fully featured BMS, but because of this they are unable to supply enough current to start an engine.